It's hanging on the brake pedal arm, up above the steering column. After that would be the brake light switch ( part # C5AB-13480-C) has gone bad. Then, it would be the plug-in connector to the tail light housing, or the socket on the housing itself, has gotten all corroded and funky looking. At the top of that list is the bulbs are burned out in the tail lights. The most common problems with the brake lights make up a pretty short list. When you signal a turn, one bulb will be full on and the other will blink full on/ half on, because one filament is still getting power as a tail light from the headlight switch. When you step on the brake pedal, again, both bulbs are full on. When the tail lights are on, like when driving at night, that activates the dimmer of the two filaments in each bulb. Then one bulb stays light and other blinks full on/all the way off. When the tail lights are not on, and you have your foot on the brake pedal, both of the brighter filaments should be on, until you activate the turn signals. When you step on the brakes, that completes the circuit in the switch, and power then proceeds from there to the turn signal switch, which sends the power on back to the tail light sockets, lighting up the brighter of the two filaments in each of the tail light bulbs. Power comes from the headlight switch over to the brake light switch, which breaks the circuit. The bulb in the tail light socket is a dual filament bulb. Now,moving back to how the brake lights work, there are actually two different circuits. I made the diagram as big as possible so that it would be easier to see. If you click on the diagram, you will then be able to see the entire diagram, instead of just the left half that you see now. Here is a diagram of how the brake lights work on your car. Just good, solid advice from people that know what they are talking about. None of that ridiculous one-upmanship, no flaming or abuse, none of that stuff. well, you probably need to try that." " I tried that and it helped, but it still isn't quite right." "Now you need to try this." If you go to and then go to the classics forums, you will be able to do that with a pretty hefty gathering of some very knowledgeable people that also happen to be very friendly. Some problems require a little bit of back and forth, as in, "Try this." "I tried that and it didn't change anything." " Oh. These are the people that I am trying help out with this blog. They don't want to re-engineer the entire car, they just want someone to fix what broke. They take their car to some technician when what they actually need is a mechanic, and this, frequently, does not work out very well at all for the owner. And I think, truth be told, that this is by far the largest class of Mustang owners. They just want this car that they dearly love to be able to cruise around smoothly and reliably, without having it dump them out on the side of the road or have it start making weird noises or belching out big clouds of funky-smelling smoke. show car that is so nice and was soooo expensive that they're afraid to drive it, they also don't want to make their car capable of achieving warp factor three. Rating with 4 stars because of the wire marking and the uncertainty of long-term reliability.There is a very large class of people that own 65/66 Mustangs that, as far as I can tell, anyway, have been, for the most part, ignored entirely. I'm hopeful that it will last longer than the previous ones the last one of which failed after 300 miles. This is the third switch that I've put in in the last few months, although the first from this manufacturer. So while working in the confined, poorly lighted area when under the dash plugging the pins into the connector it was somewhat difficult to ensure that the proper wire was plugged into the right hole in the connector body. This was a little confusing since there are 2 other green wires in the same harness (green/white stripe and green/red stripe). The install went as well as might be expected with the only minor issue being that the wire in the switch harness that's supposed to be green/orange stripe (on the Ford schematic) is actually a solid green wire. Form and fit match the original equipment unit.
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